eat. shop. love. nyc.

The best kebabs in Cannes

Place Gambetta is the place to be when you’ve got a hankering for meat in a wrap. This is a smaller, but still sizable, daily market than the Marche Forville in the covered area in the center of the square. Place Gambetta is a block north of the Rue d’Antibes and a couple of blocks east of the train station. Place Gambetta is home to Sylane Kebab (Turkish) and Aux Delices Armenienes (Armenian, duh).

If you like your kebabs a little messy with lamb meat juice and yogurt sauce dribbling down your chin, Sylane is the place to go. The döner kebabs here were a revelation for me when I took my first sweet, sweet bite (sweet in the figurative sense, not literally) – I hadn’t tasted such moist and flavorful meat in my life. Granted, at the time I first tried Sylane’s kebab, my kebab experience had been confined to kebab joints in the US, but even New York City couldn’t compare. No, Bereket does not serve a good kebab (most of the time – it is always hit or miss); its saving grace is that it is open 24/7 and its many drunk patrons can’t tell a good kebab from their own asses.

Continue reading


Wonder Girls
October 4, 2010, 9:10 pm
Filed under: Listen | Tags: , , , , , ,

K-pop sensations the Wonder Girls are in Cannes this week to promote their new documentary at MIPCOM. They performed at the KOCCA party on opening night and while the sound was crappy, ya just gotta love that feelgood, upbeat vibe. Check out Wonder Girls – Nobody on YouTube to see what I’m talking about!

Lunching at La Farigoule in Cannes
September 30, 2010, 9:23 am
Filed under: Eat | Tags: , , , , ,

I just came across some pictures from La Farigoule in Cannes last April and realized I hadn’t posted them before in my The French Don’t Do Doggie Bags blog. These pics got me excited again for Cannes! Pardon the re-post, but I wanted to share these photos with you.

Sara and I went to lunch at La Farigoule, one of our favorite neighborhood restaurants in Cannes where Lillia (pronounced li-yah) will show you the heart-shaped freckle on her breast and then chastise you for looking at her decolletage and owner Patricia will offer you a complimentary shot of blood orange liqueur (or several) as an after-dinner cordial. We’re not talking fine dining, but rather home cooking, but always tasty. Their prices are fairly modest for Cannes (three course menu for 16 euros), especially during convention times when most restaurants double their menu prices to get the most out of the conventioneers. We had the spaghetti carbonara and the spaghetti aux moules (with mussels) for 10 euros each, and both were hearty and totally hit the spot after a long plane ride and the lugging of very heavy stand supplies.

The carbonara was chock full of fatty bits of ham in a rich cream sauce, served with an egg yolk on top to be mixed in for extra ooey goodness.

The mussels were fresh, plentiful in a very seafood-y saffron cream sauce.

Eat: La Farigoule (Cote D’Azur) 82 Rue Meynadier, 06400 Cannes, France. +33 04 93 38 94 95. Ambiance: cozy and familial, tiny space with red checked tablecloth, outrageously friendly staff, heartwarming food.

Ginger citrus chicken recipe
May 14, 2010, 12:06 pm
Filed under: Cook, Eat, Go | Tags: , , , , , , , , , ,

One of the best things about cooking in France is the abundance of farmers’ markets. Within 10 minutes’ walk from our hotel in Cannes, there were two farmers’ markets: the Marché Forville and the Marché Gambetta. On our last day in Cannes post-MIPcano, we stayed with a friend at his apartment, and he graciously allowed us free reign of his kitchen. After two weeks of rich food heavy in cream and fat, we were all feeling the need for something lighter. Dave suggested that we try to make something Asian, so with that in mind, I headed to the market.

Although the Marché Gambetta food and textiles and other wares, the Marché Forville has only food – freshly baked bread from neighborhood bakeries, house-cured saucissons and homemade pates from area boucheries, fish caught that morning in surrounding waters, and just-picked fruits and vegetables by local farmers. The produce is fiercely local, with a veritable bounty of beautiful and various kinds of asparagus, artichokes, and strawberries, but not so much in the way of snow peas, bean sprouts, Chinese broccoli, or the like.

After some perusing, I decided to go in the direction of making ginger and citrus marinated chicken legs with a side of gingered veggies. We already had soy sauce, honey, and sesame oil at the the apartment, so I picked up chicken legs, ginger, an orange, a lime, and green onions for the chicken itself, and green beans, onions, and carrots for the side of veggies.

Ingredients for Ginger Citrus Chicken (serves 3):

  • 3 chicken skin-on, bone-in chicken quarters, legs and thighs attached
  • Juice (and pulp) of half a large orange
  • Juice of half a lime
  • 4 plump cloves of garlic, minced
  • 4 ounces of ginger, peeled and grated
  • 2 tablespoon of soy sauce
  • 2 tablespoons of honey
  • 2 tablespoons of orange marmalade
  • 2 half-tablespoons of sesame oil
  • Sea salt to taste
  • White pepper to taste

Directions for Ginger Citrus Chicken (serves 3):

  • Pre-heat oven to 400 degrees.
  • Rinse chicken in cold water and pat dry.
  • Rub chicken with a little sea salt and white pepper then set aside.
  • In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients above except chicken and one half-tablespoon of sesame oil and mix well. Have a wee taste. Do not be alarmed if the marinade seems very spicy (from the ginger) or very garlicky (duh – from the garlic) – these flavors will mellow out with cooking. In fact, you might even want to add a little more for that extra zing. If you desire more sweetness, add more honey. If you want more tartness, add more lime. If you want more saltiness, add more soy sauce or a pinch of salt.

  • Once satisfied with your marinade, arrange your chicken quarters in a baking dish.
  • Pour the marinade onto the chicken quarters, and with your hands and/or a spoon, separate the chicken skin from the meat, and make sure the marinade gets all up in there.

  • Slice green onions into long strips and scatter atop the chicken. This is purely aesthetic. I just liked the splash of green.
  • Slice up leftover orange and lime for garnish. Waste not, want not! Marinate in refrigerator for two to eight hours, but remove from refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature before baking.

  • Bake chicken in oven for 40 minutes.
  • After 25 minutes, remove chicken from oven briefly and drizzle tops with remaining half-tablespoon of sesame oil to crisp up the skin.

While the chicken was cooking, we enjoyed some of our other market goodies: charcuterie!

This monstrous loaf is called “Pâté croute de pintade fermiere aux morilles” (or for you non-French speakers: “country-style crusted pâté of guinea fowl with morels.” It comes in the shape of a loaf, and consists of myriad different preparations of myriad innards of the guinea fowl with pistachios and morels, all rolled up and baked in a rich, buttery crust. This pretty baby cost 27.80 euros per kilo (but this thin slice only set me back 4 euros or so).

As the chicken was about to finish cooking, I sauteed slivers of onion in sesame oil until translucent, then added green beans (trimmed), and strips of carrot. When everything was just cooked through but still crisp, I added a little soy sauce and some Tabasco (for a kick of spice and vinegar).

Mmm… Then it was time for dessert, and for this glorious occasion, we had picked up a vanilla creme brulee and a chocolate mousse topped with chocolate pop rocks (they were explosive – never had anything like it!) from the best chocolatier in town: L’Atelier Jean-Luc Pelé.

It was a sweet end to a sweet week, and we slept like babies that night… at least until we had to wake up at 3:45 am to catch a cab to the Nice Airport. Until next time…

Treat yourself: L’Atelier Jean-Luc Pelé. 36 rue Meynadier. 06400 Cannes, France. +33 (0)4 9338 0610.

L’Atelier de Christian Choisy

St. Paul de Vence, oil on board by Jack Davis

If you have never visited the picturesque and historic mountain village of St. Paul de Vence, you’re truly missing out on a Provencal gem, and it is an absolute must-see for art lovers in particular. This tiny village perched on a narrow spur between two deep valleys dates back to medieval times, and it is perhaps best known for the famous creative folk who once stayed there: artists Matisse, Soutine, Chagall, Renoir, Modigliani… as well as writers, film directors, scriptwriters, and French and international stars like Roger Moore and Tony Curtis.

Legend has it that when the impoverished artists didn’t have money to pay for room and board, they would pay with their artwork. The hotels La Colombe d’Or (then Le Robinson) and Pergola (then La Résidence) run by Paul Roux and Ferdinand Issert, respectively, were popular lodgings for artists in the early 1900s. At La Colombe d’Or, you can still wander the halls and dine surrounded by the ghosts of Picasso, Chagall, Matisse, Miro, Calder and others who have left behind sketches, paintings, sculpture or poetry. Marc Chagall is buried in the cemetery at St. Paul de Vence, and you may visit his grave, marked simply with a white tombstone, to pay your respects.

It’s no surprise, then, that art remains an integral part of the community in St. Paul de Vence, which houses several artists’ studios and galleries. Continue reading

Still stranded on the Cote d’Azur
April 22, 2010, 5:18 pm
Filed under: Go | Tags: , , ,

Yes, that’s right. I was supposed to be home last Saturday, and instead, I’m here in Cannes (and surrounding areas) until this Sunday. I wish I could say I have been taking advantage of the sunshine and beaches, but I’ve been working! I am proud to say I’ve actually completed all of my MIPTV follow up in record time.

So, please, forgive me for the lack of new and interesting posts. Unfortunately, I left my USB cable at home thinking I’d be back in just a week and wouldn’t need to transfer any photos onto my laptop in the meantime. I’m afraid that soon, I’ll be running out of room on my memory card for pictures! FYI, I also ran out of clothes, stockings, toothpaste, face wash, shampoo & conditioner, underwear – it’s a good thing the Galeries Lafayette was having a sidewalk sale with lacy underthings starting at 2 euros today. (Any excuse to shop, right?)

Cannes is usually very quiet after convention. Thanks to MIPcano, it’s been livelier and we’ve been running into old (and new) friends pretty frequently, though almost everyone has left. It’s just us and Dave, our favorite Tasmanian animator and MIP chef. I love camp friends.

Volcanic ash is pas bon
April 16, 2010, 1:11 pm
Filed under: Go, Think | Tags: , , , , , , ,

I’m in Cannes for MIPTV and due to fly out from Nice via London to New York tomorrow, but what with the volcanic ash from Iceland, a whole lotta flights to and from northern Europe have been canceled since Thursday. As such, I’ve decided to pack up what I can in hopes that my flight will be on time tomorrow, but I suppose there are worse places in the world to be stranded due to flight disruptions caused by volcanic ash clouds. Today I took a ferry to the Ile Saint Honorat, where there is an active wine-producing monastery and surrounding vineyards, a breathtakingly beautiful ruined fortress, and crystal clear water amid glorious Provencal foliage. Life is not completely sucking.