eat. shop. love. nyc.

Wiener & beer heaven at Loreley Biergarten
March 24, 2010, 11:42 am
Filed under: Drink, Eat | Tags: , , , , , ,

I really like wheat beers. I don’t know if that makes me some kind of beer sissy, but I do. What I discovered on a recent trip to Loreley is that even within the wheat beer category, it’s not all fruit and sunshine and spices. There are some dark and dangerous wheat beers out there. Hold onto your panties, ladies.

This is the Schneider Aventinus Doppelbock. Dark-ruby, almost black-colored and streaked with fine top-fermenting yeast, this beer has a compact and persistent head. This is a very intense wheat doppelbock with a complex spicy chocolate-like aroma with a hint of banana and raisins. On the palate, you experience a soft touch and on the tongue it is very rich and complex, though fresh with a hint of caramel. It finishes in a rich soft and lightly bitter impression. (By the way, I totally cut and pasted that description. My beer palate isn’t quite that refined. To me, it just tasted wheat-y, mildly sweet like caramel, and finished smoothly – a very light dark beer.) At 8.2 % ABV, one of these half-liter bottles got me drunk. Drunk on $8! The draught beers here run $6-$8 for half liter draughts, and bottled beers run $5-$9. If you look at the bottled beers, the Doppelbock and the Eisbock are the ones where you’ll get the most ABV for your buck, if that’s the kind of thing you look for in a beer, you classy broad, you. All draught beers are also available in 1 Liter Mass Steins $14-$16.

I think the Doppelback would pair well with something buttery, savory, and a little sweet – if I had know I was going to order the sausage platter, I would have chosen a more bitter pilsner, but I was tipsy by the time the food came out, so I suppose it mattered not.

This is the sausage platter, or Wurstteller mit Sauerkraut und Kartoffelpuree ($16). There are three different kinds of sausages (smoked, weisswurst, wiener), served with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes. We actually asked to substitute the wiener for the bratwurst and they happily complied. From left to right: smoked, bratwurst, weissewurst. The mustard and sauerkraut were great! Just the right amount of vinegar and acidity.

Would strongly recommend Loreley for draft and bottled German beer lovers who also want a gnosh to sop up the alcohol. On the small plates menu, the $5 Bratwurst mit Brot (one bratwurst with bread and mustard) is a pretty good deal; it’s a hearty snack or a very light meal. I had the$10 Currywurst mit Pommes Frites (bratwurst in curry/tomato sauce and French fries) and I was disappointed. While the thin, crispy fries were good, the currywurst doesn’t taste strongly enough of curry for me. Go with the Bratwurst mit Brot and order fries on the side.

Eat: Loreley Restaurant and Biergarten (Lower East Side) 7 Rivington St., New York, NY 10002 (212)253-7077. Open daily at noon.


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